Palermo: Ancestral Shores

Maybe because it promised to be the warmest, because we would be staying in an actual hotel, or because this was the one stop I had a personal connection to, but Palermo was probably the city I was most excited about. Venice was beautiful, Rome historical if overrated, and to be honest, I wasn't sure what to expect of Palermo.

I certainly wasn't disappointed by my first glimpse of the Sicilian coastline from the airport and bus ride into the city. There weren't any beaches, just the deep blue-green of the Mediterranean smashing against low, rocky shores. Palm trees stood side by side with pines, climbing up the gentle hills that are broken by enormous mountains of rock that seem to rise and crest from the land like frozen waves. Houses densely hug the coast, thinning as they get closer to the roots of the mountains. Palermo itself is cradled between the mountains that stretch to also encompass Torini and the sea with a large harbor and marina.

Inside the city, the old and new live side by side, seeing equal amounts of activity. People still worship in pre-modern era churches, trade in traditional markets, and gossip at aged piazzas. The old and young congregate around their favorite shop or fountain to chat, shop, or just observe life. Evidence of Sicily's rich cultural past, having passed through Norman, Arab, and Spanish hands, shows in everything from the ethnic foods to the architectural styles to the faces of the people themselves.

With a much better map than either of our previous ones, we began our exploration by making our way down one of the main streets towards the Trezza di Mare or Sea Terrace. Passing the Fountain of Shame, so named for its numerous nude statues, as well as other fountains and churches, we crossed under looming Porta Felice to the small park on the sea. When you turned around, the view was spectacular. The varying layers of Palermo, with their contrasting skyrises and tiled roofs, were set against the antique green of the sweeping mountains. The cliffs of the island faded into indistinguishable blue as they stretched into the distance.

The park itself wasn't much, just a few gravel walkways following the shore and large expanses of open fields for schoolboys to play football (soccer) on. We were able to find a small section of beach with rocks, seaglass, intricate shells, and the occasional bits of tile marking the former tides' height. After sorting through a fair bit for small treasures, I couldn't resist dipping my feet into the sea. Needless to say, it was freezing but worth it as it felt like a small tribute to my Italian blood, touching the ancestral waters.

Going back into the main city, we walked through the high end streets with their numerous clothing shops and patisseries along with three of Palermo's famous markets. Unfortunately, it started to rain with intermittent hail, forcing us to return to our hotel, where we partook in the wonderful tradition of the afternoon nap. Upon waking up, we ventured out again for food only to discover that with the cultural differences of mealtimes, most of the food shops and restaurants were closed or closing. So after lots of walking and a bit of desperation, we ended up with half-off paninis, which were actually quite good. Our evening was rounded off by stumbling upon a small Christmas carol performance with lights cast onto the monuments on our way back to our hotel.

The next morning saw us walking through the last sector of the city. Quite by accident we found the last of the markets, Ballaro. Vendors shouted back and forth as people examined the fresh fish and produce, the smell of fish and citrus heavy on the air. I ended up buying three incredibly juicy oranges, leaves still attached, that we ate throughout the rest of the day. I couldn't help being a bit proud of myself, having participated in an important part of Italian life and making use of my very, very scant Italian vocabulary. 

From there, we found the Norman Palace, closed for repair, and the Palermo Cathedral. The small piazza with orange trees and cobblestones in front of the cathedral was dominated by a large, beautifully tiled boat carrying Palermo's patron saint, St.Rosalia, and a statue of Michael the Archangel crushing a demon. Outside, the cathedral showed a variety of influences, having Christian images, Arab domes, and Norman towers. Inside though, it was all Catholic with marble holy water basins carved with scenes from Jesus' life, paintings and sculptures of saints tucked into small chapels or guarding the main aisle, and a magnificent altar piece of the resurrected Christ.

When it came near time for us to leave Palermo, we said goodbye by eating a tiramisu and a latte&nutella gelato on St.Dominic's piazza, simply watching life go by. We left with the setting sun, watching the rocks of the mountains slowly turn from gray to dusky purple before finally disappearing beneath the clouds.

To sum up my Italian travels, I have two main observations. The first is that Catholicism inseparable from Italy. In all three cities, almost every other street corner held a small shrine or two, most of them being devoted to the Virgin Mary. Streets and piazzas held the names of countless saints while churches proved to be one of the best ways to find your location on any map. The second observation is that Italy is in a semi strange state of simultaneous decay and growth. Not so old buildings crumbled both inside the city and on the outskirts while new buildings rose above the skylines. Luxurious stores with brand names flourished on the same street that homeless people bundled under sleeping bags for warmth at night. I did love Italy, but I think I'd need a little more time there to truly understand it. That journey, however, will have to wait for another time.

Rome: Living History

Rome: the center of ancient and modern Italy, a hub of constant activity, and our second stop. Thankfully, after getting off our early flight and arriving in Rome after a short bus ride that included passing under Roman aqueducts, I received a very good omen in the form of a store right in front of the bus station named 'trombetta's.' No, I didn't end up going in because the food was quite pricey and beyond my poor student budget. 

 

As a city, Rome moves at its own pace. The drivers are crazy, speeding along and trying to get wherever they're going 5 minutes ago. This makes crossing a street an adventure in itself; usually you just have to go for it and run. Avoiding or saying 'no' to ever present and ever aggressive/persistent street vendors also becomes a constant in Rome as they are always attached to the tourist areas. Despite these annoyances and the general over-touristy nature of Rome, it's fun to sit down with a good panini to munch on just to watch the multitude of people from all over the world strolling along to observe what's left of ancient Rome or admire the many street artists display and create their work right on the street. There's a respectful quiet around the ruins even though the city grows and runs around them. It comes from a sense of pride for their history, I suppose, as history infiltrates the very air along with the smells of rose perfume, herbs, and humanity.

 Unfortunately, my budget limited what I got to see of Rome to a certain extent. Access to museums and most of the historical sites' interiors come with fees. However, thanks to the rather central location of our hostel, Rachel and I were still able to take in most of Rome, excluding the Vatican as it would've taken most of the day to walk there.

Being both the closest and probably the most famous monument of Rome, we began our sightseeing by heading for the Colosseum. Along the way we discovered a park built around the ruins of a basilica and Trajan's baths. As we went down the hill from the park, still preoccupied with the baths, I spotted a series of arches standing tall and stark against the sky. Turns out the Colosseum was very easy to find. 

From all the shots in movies I've seen that show the Colosseum, I'd imagined it as surrounded by a constant flow of activity, but it was actually much quieter. Another thing movies and books alike hadn't prepared me for was the size. In your mind, you know it's big, but standing in its shadow lends a whole new feeling to its massiveness. The solemnity and wonder of the moments around the Colosseum experienced a small break when I saw a Christmas tree in front of it. The irony of it gave me a small chuckle. Even though I didn't go inside, the outside view of the building was wondrous enough for me, disregarding its less than pleasant past.

The Arch of Constantine, which was located nearby the ruins of Palatine Hill, was also in the same area. I couldn't see much of the Palatine Hill ruins, but the Arch was magnificent despite being fenced off. Walking on the large cobblestone path around it and looking at the meticulous carvings, some still appearing fresh while others show evident wear, the feel of history was almost palpable.

This feeling was equally powerful at the numerous nearby forums known collectively as the Roman forums. Only a few of the pillars remain standing and have parts of their original exterior. Most of what remains are scattered pieces of columns and arches, as well as the foundations and some of the underground substructures. To imagine it as it was in it's glory days, whole once again and full of life, is to stand still in wonder. Trajan's column, an ornately carved column depicting the history of Rome and its empire stands as a visual reminder of the forums' former greatness.

From the forums, we wandered next to the Vittorio Emanuele monument, which also houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Covered in statues that represent different aspects of Italy's history and unification by Emanuele, the ornate monument apparently has the local nickname of 'The Wedding Cake.' By this time, it was getting dark, so we found a local restaurant and enjoyed a meal of ravioli, with spinach, ricotta, and oregano inside, and meat sauce before heading to our final destination of the night: The Trevi Fountain.

Having to wind our way through several backstreets, our finding of the fountain was even more satisfying. Although more detail is probably visible during the day, the fountain at night is spectacular with the way the light shines through the water onto the sculptures, giving them an extra spark of life. Hopefully that magic, as well as that of the hippocampi, mermen, and Neptune was alive as well as we threw our two coins into the fountain; one for a wish and the other to return to Rome.

Venice: An Amazing Maze

I'm back in England and now thoroughly recovered from my 4 day journey to three of Italy's biggest cities: Venice, Rome, and Palermo. I had wanted to post last night, but my internet was experiencing some issues so I had wait until today. Anyway, I've decided to devote one post each to each of the cities in order to do them justice. I'll begin with our first destination. Venice.

 Waking up at 2:30 am, my roommate Rachel and I caught an early flight out of London so we could enjoy most of the day in Venice. While on the plane, we got a beautiful view of the Alps, making us even more excited for our trip.

 

Our arrival in Venice was a little less than desirable as it was very foggy and we got a little lost finding our hostel, which was actually in the small village of Tessera, a 15 minute walk from the airport. When we did find it, I was very happy when the owner said I had a very Italian face to go with my last name. However, he then said something I've never been told in my life: "You're very white." Of course, he went on to add I was pale for someone whose families came from southern Italy, but I was still surprised to hear that. Note to self: work on tan.

After setting down our backpacks (we traveled very light), Rachel and I took a 45 minute bus ride into the actual city of Venice. As we crossed the bridge, images of Venice's winged St. Mark's lion greeted us while small islands rose out of the water and mist on either side. As we stepped off the bus, we passed through a small piazza surrounded on all other side by tall modern buildings and full of the usual tourist trap souvenir stalls of masks and other trinkets to our first stone bridge. When we reached the top, we got our first glimpse of the famous city.

 

As we made our way into the city, crossing over countless bridges of metal, wood, and stone and of varying lengths and sizes, Venice became alive. The sweet smell of pastry sugar and the earthy smell of water mixed in the misty air. Native Venetians bustled along their daily lives, striding purposefully forward or strolling along their usual haunts and calling out to friends. Tourists stroll as well, ducking in and out of the various shops and boutiques or stopping at the vendors on every corner and piazza selling homogenous souvenirs. On the canals, gondolas and motorboats bob along on the almost Caribbean green water. We wandered aimlessly, following the crowds or our own inclinations, finding small but beautiful moments and architecture along the way.

It's really no mystery to me now why Venice is such a beloved subject for artists. The earthen browns, reds, and yellows of the buildings with their plants and little balconies, the jewel blue and green of the canals, and the intricate iron,old wood, or aged stone of the bridges make each little canal seem like a picture in itself. Add that to the native flavors of the carnival masks and hundreds of little alleyways, and you'd always be able to capture a new side of Venice.

 

Although we had fun not really knowing where we were going as it let us enjoy a canoli and a cup of tiramisu, buy ourselves a carnival mask each, see some of the ordinary but beautiful architecture and countless small shops we wouldn't have seen by taking the road more traveled, as it got later we made our way to the Piazza di San Marco or St.Mark's Piazza (and got turned around a bit too).

As we crossed the bridge into the piazza, my eyes were immediately captured by a large, marble fronted building, guarded by lions and saints that looked ready to step away into the square. My attention, once done with this building, was overwhelmed by St.Mark's Cathedral. There were so many details on just on side of the cathedral it had to be appreciated bit by bit. Not only was the architecture itself an intriguing meeting of Eastern and Western styles, but the decoration saw Islamic, Hebrew, Roman, Byzantine, and Mesopotamian influences with numerous sculptures, reliefs, mosaics, paintings, and carvings covering almost every available surface. Pagan themes stood right alongside the Christian, yet they didn't seem to clash. On a corner of the cathedral, I discovered a very familiar carving of the Tetrarchs of the Roman Empire.

The other great presences that dominated the square was St.Mark's winged lion and the great clock. The famous clock, with its golden signs of the zodiac, rested beneath a sculpture of the lion. The lion is everywhere in the square, from the top of flagpoles to the bases of lampposts to the most famous one that is said to protect the city from its perch on a tall column.

 

By that time, the mist was settling back in, signalling our time to return to our hostel. Finding our circular way back, we bought pizza for dinner and ate it while looking out over the Grand Canal; a very fitting and satisfying way to end the day. 

韩庚，为了你我会加油。(Hangeng, for you, I'll work hard.)

Yet another trip to London to see one of my Asian singers over and despite some disappointments, I came away from it the better. It may seem silly to some of you, the way I look up to these people, but hopefully once I explain about this very special person, you'll at least partially understand.

First off, I should start by saying the event I went to wasn't a concert this time. Instead, it was a lecture and speech as part of the London School of Business and Finance's HOPE, a charity event to help encourage education. This year, HOPE was aimed at the growing Chinese student population and the guest of honor was one of Asian's rising stars, Hangeng.

To help you understand part of why I respect this man, I have to give you a little background. From childhood, Hangeng's dream was to be a dancer and an actor. In 2001, he left China to begin training under SM Entertainment, possibly the biggest entertainment company in South Korea, and later debuted in the group Super Junior in 2005. In 2009, he sued the company to end his 13 year long contract because it was over restrictive and unlawful. This lawsuit went back and forth for two years before finally ending in favor of Hangeng, during which time he began his solo career as a singer and actor. He's been doing pretty well for himself, even winning the 2012 MTV Europe Awards' Best World Act.

With Hangeng, my reasons for admiring him begin during his trainee days. For those of you who don't know, the training South Korean singers go through before they debut is no joke. As Hangeng and others have describe, almost every hour of every day is filled with dance practice, vocal practice, etc. with little free time. The trainees are given a little pocket money, but it's next to nothing. For Hangeng, this time was especially hard. Not only was he in a country where he barely spoke or understood the language, but he was rarely able to talk to his family back in China. However, that doesn't mean he forgot about them. Instead, he sent most of the money he received to them. He endured the long hours and difficulties many of us couldn't imagine, but he did it all to achieve his dream.

Not only has he worked above and beyond hard to reach his dream, but more than that, I believe he's a very brave and generous person. It takes guts not only to leave home to go to a foreign country where you don't speak the language on the slightest hope you'll succeed and then stand up alone against a major company, but to tell them you deserve better and then keep getting better and working harder takes even more courage in my opinion. Not only that, but despite Hangeng's rising popularity and the hardships he went through, he's very human and compassionate. Besides taking care of his parents with the money he earns, he reaches out to others too. Donating both his time, money and image to the cause, Hangeng is a huge supporter of China's Love Life charity. He particularly helps out with programs involving orphaned or destitute children.

All of what I've wrote is a mix of what I knew before and from what he said in his speech. Unfortunately, my Chinese isn't good enough yet and there wasn't a translation or interpreter, so I was only able to understand about a fourth of what he said, but what I did was more than enough. Besides talking about his time in South Korea and his career, he also talked about working to achieve our dreams and helping others along the way. For example, with the children Hangeng helps, he said he wants to help them be as happy as he is and make sure they have the resources to make their dreams come true.

Although I was disappointed I didn't get to actually meet him, I still walked away with a new light. Before Hangeng spoke, one of the school's director gave a small speech, saying success is not only a result of luck, but also of hard work and character. As I watched Hangeng on stage, only half understanding what he was saying, I still felt inspired. Here's a person who's gone through so much to achieve his dreams and has succeeded beyond expectation, but who's still down to earth, who makes jokes with his fans despite being tired, who puts others first. If he can work this hard to realize his dream, I can as well. If he can do this and still manage to be an incredibly good person, so can I. Since I didn't get to meet him, I'm going to send him a letter. A little teenage fangirl-ed and foolish since he likely won't ever see it, but I'll still do it.

I'm not sure of the exact words, but it will be something along the lines of 'thank you.' Because of him, I'll work even harder, both so I can achieve my own dreams of being fluent in Chinese and one day, I can have the opportunity to thank him in person. I'll be a fan he can be proud of, for the sake of both of us.